Nikko

Introduction

"Do not say ‘wonderful’ until you have seen Nikko"
(Nikko wo mizushite kekko to iu na - 日光を見ずして結構と言うな)

As this saying suggests, Nikko is famous for its outstanding natural scenery and historic temples and shrine architecture.

In particular, Nikko’s heritage sites, including Toshogu Shrine (東照宮), are considered among the most beautiful in Japan and are often listed as a must-visit place on a Japan trip.

During Japan’s bubble economy era, the Kinugawa Onsen area was very popular as a hot spring resort, but today it is less famous than before. However, it still has the advantage of affordable hot spring bathing.

Nikko is easy to visit as a day trip from Tokyo, but if you want a slower pace, staying for one night is also a good option.

However, at night the area can feel quiet and a bit empty, as there is less activity from tourists and local residents. It is best to plan your stay with the evening atmosphere in mind.

Transport pass guide for a more efficient Nikko trip

If you are planning a Nikko trip, it is smart to choose the right pass in advance based on your route, because it can save both money and travel time.

For example, a one-way fare from Asakusa to Shimo-Imaichi (下今市) Station, the gateway to Nikko, is about 1,400 yen, so a round trip costs about 2,800 yen. With a pass, you can often cover the round-trip train ride plus local buses for the same price or less.

1) Nikko Pass (World Heritage Area)

• Asakusa Station ↔ Shimo-Imaichi Station one round trip
• Shimo-Imaichi ↔ Tobu-Nikko / Shin-Fujiwara section: unlimited rides on all Tobu Railway lines
• Includes the World Heritage Area loop bus around central sights such as Toshogu Shrine, Rinnoji Temple, and Futarasan Shrine
• Discounts on admission to attractions such as Edo Wonderland and Tobu World Square
• Valid for 2 days
• The valid area also includes Kinugawa Onsen

2) Nikko Pass (All Area)

• Asakusa Station ↔ Shimo-Imaichi Station one round trip
• Unlimited rides on all Tobu Railway lines to Tobu-Nikko / Shin-Fujiwara
• Includes all Tobu Bus routes in Nikko city and the Kinugawa area
• Covers major sights including Nikko Edo Wonderland, Lake Chuzenji, and Kegon Falls
• Lake Chuzenji cruise and low-emission bus available (only in certain seasons)
• Valid for 4 days
• Recommended if you want to enjoy nature views, hot springs, and heritage sites all in one trip

How to use local and limited express trains to Nikko

Nikko is divided into two main directions from Shimo-Imaichi (下今市) Station.

• Left direction: Tobu-Nikko Station → World Heritage Area, Lake Chuzenji, Chuzenji Onsen
• Right direction: Kinugawa Onsen, Tobu World Square, Edo Wonderland

No matter which direction you choose, remember that all limited express trains to Nikko stop at Shimo-Imaichi Station.

If you use the Nikko Pass, you can ride only local trains between Asakusa and Shimo-Imaichi, and you need at least two transfers. Total travel time is about 2 hours 45 minutes.

With a limited express train, you can arrive in about 1 hour 40 minutes without transfers, which is much better for time and convenience.

However, even if you have a Nikko Pass, you must buy a separate limited express ticket to use a limited express train.

Below is an introduction to the main limited express trains to Nikko.

1) Types of limited express trains to Nikko

Limited express trains are mainly divided into Spacia, Spacia X, and Revaty (Liberty).

• Spacia: Asakusa → Tobu-Nikko or Kinugawa Onsen (1,650 yen one way)
• Spacia X: a newer model with multiple seat classes, 1,940 yen for standard seats
• Revaty (Liberty): runs to Tobu-Nikko and Kinugawa Onsen (1,650 yen one way)

Fares change by season.

• Peak season (繁忙期): 1,850 yen to 2,140 yen
• Off season (閑散期): 1,450 yen to 1,740 yen

2) Train names and key features

• Limited Express Spacia

  • “Kegon”: to Tobu-Nikko
  • “Kinu”: to Kinugawa Onsen

• Limited Express Spacia X

  • The newer model of the Spacia
  • Multiple seat classes, including Cockpit Suite and Lounge

• Limited Express Revaty (Liberty)

  • “Liberty Kegon”: to Tobu-Nikko
  • “Liberty Kinu”: to Kinugawa Onsen

3) Limited Express Spacia X

Spacia X is Tobu Railway’s newest premium limited express train. It started service on July 15, 2023. It is a full redesign of the original Spacia, with a more modern exterior and a comfortable, high-quality interior.

The limited express ticket is about 300 yen more than standard limited express trains for standard seats, but the price difference is not large.

However, there are important points you should know before you ride.

• 🚃 On-board cafe area: sells simple drinks such as coffee and beer, but it can be hard to buy if you do not know the process.
• 🪑 Six seat classes: seat types vary by group size and purpose. If you want more privacy, it is better to choose a suite, private room, or box seat.

Below are seat fees that require an extra charge in addition to the standard limited express ticket.

• Cockpit Suite (18,000 yen per room / up to 7 people)
• Private Room (8,000 yen for up to 4 people)
• Box Seat (400 yen for 2 people)
• Cockpit Lounge
  • Single seat: 500 yen
  • Two seats: 1,000 yen
  • Four seats: 2,000 yen (available from 2 people)
• Premium Seat (580 yen per seat)
• Standard seats: no extra charge

Spacia X is the most stylish limited express option for a comfortable Nikko trip, so it is important to plan ahead based on your seat class and reservation method.

4) SL Taiju Train 🚂

Another special train experience in Nikko is SL Taiju. “SL” stands for Steam Locomotive, meaning a real steam-powered locomotive. The name “Taiju (大樹)” is also a nickname of Tokugawa Ieyasu, enshrined at Toshogu Shrine.

There are two main service sections:

• Tobu-Nikko Station ↔ Shimo-Imaichi Station (about 20 minutes)
• Shimo-Imaichi Station ↔ Kinugawa Onsen Station (about 35 minutes)

Even if you have a Nikko Pass, you must buy a separate reserved seat ticket to ride SL Taiju. Since regular trains also run on this line, you can simply use a local train if you do not need the steam train experience.

One important note: there is also DL Taiju (Diesel Locomotive), which looks similar. The name is similar, but it is diesel, so be careful not to confuse it if you want the steam locomotive.

You can check operating days and timetables on the Tobu Railway official website. Reserved seat bookings open at 9:00 a.m., one month before the travel date.

Key Nikko areas and routes by pass type

If you plan your trip using the Nikko Pass, use the World Heritage Area Pass mainly for routes 1) and 2). If you buy the All Area Pass, you can travel more slowly and build up to a 4-day itinerary in the order of 3), 1), 2).

1) World Heritage Area

• Tobu-Nikko Station Bus Stop 2B → take the World Heritage loop bus to Stop 85: Daiyuin / Futarasan Shrine-mae
• Walk in the order: Futarasan Shrine → Toshogu Shrine → Rinnoji Temple → Shinkyo Bridge

2) Kinugawa Onsen Area

• Bus Stop 7: Shinkyo → travel to Tobu-Nikko Station (timetable 1, timetable 2, timetable 3)

• Tobu-Nikko Station → Shimo-Imaichi Station → Tobu World Square Station → visit Tobu World Square

• Kinugawa Onsen Station → take the bus to 'Edo Wonderland' and visit

• Return to Kinugawa Onsen Station, then day-use onsen or stay at a ryokan

3) Akechidaira Observatory, Lake Chuzenji, and Kegon Falls Area

• From Bus Stop 7: Shinkyo, take the bus to Yumoto Onsen (timetable)

• Get off at Stop 24: Akechidaira → take the ropeway and visit the observatory (600 yen one way / 1,000 yen round trip)

• Stop 24 → Stop 26: Chuzenji Onsen (timetable) → visit Kegon Falls

• Stop 26 → Stop 28: Fune-no-Eki Chuzenji (timetable) or walk (8 minutes) → take the sightseeing cruise

• Stop 28 → Stop 37: Ryuzu Falls (竜頭の滝) (timetable) → visit Ryuzu Falls

• Ryuzu Falls stop → return to Tobu-Nikko Station (timetable)

Nikko sights tour: legends and scenery

1) Shinkyo Bridge

神橋

In the 8th century (Nara period), a monk named Shodo Shonin (勝道上人) arrived in Nikko to establish a Buddhist tradition in the mountains. According to legend, he could not cross the strong river current in the valley. After praying to Buddha, two snakes stretched their bodies across the Daiya River to form a bridge.

This legend is the origin of Shinkyo Bridge. It was originally built of wood, but in 1636 it was lacquered to create today’s red bridge.

Shinkyo Bridge stands at the entrance to Nikko’s World Heritage area. To walk across the bridge, you need to pay an admission fee, but you can view it for free by taking the side path. 🚶‍♂️

• Opening hours
  • April to September: 08:00 to 17:00
  • October to November: 08:00 to 16:00
  • November to March: 08:00 to 16:00
• Closed: Open daily
• Admission: 300 yen

2) Futarasan Shrine

二荒山神社

A historic shrine founded in 767 by Shodo Shonin, and designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site together with Toshogu Shrine and Rinnoji Temple. It houses two swords designated as National Treasures of Japan. ⚔️

• Opening hours (last entry 30 minutes before closing)
  • April to October: 08:00 to 17:00
  • November to March: 08:00 to 16:00
• Closed: Open daily
• Admission: Free
  • However, for the Shinen Garden (神苑): Adults 200 yen / Junior & senior high school students 100 yen

3) Toshogu Shrine

東照宮

Toshogu Shrine is the site of the mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu, who won the Battle of Sekigahara and founded the Edo Shogunate. It was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999.

It is said that before he died, Ieyasu left a request to build a small shrine and move it to Nikko one week later.

His son Hidetada built the first Toshogu, and his grandson Iemitsu later expanded it on a grand scale, creating the large and ornate complex seen today.

An interesting fact is that Ieyasu never visited Nikko during his lifetime.

So why did he want his mausoleum in Nikko? One common explanation is that it was a plan to protect Tokyo from the “kimon (鬼門),” the northeast direction believed to be unlucky.

In Onmyodo beliefs, the kimon is considered the direction where evil spirits enter, and Nikko lies to the northeast of Tokyo. Some interpret this as Ieyasu’s wish to protect Edo (Tokyo) even after death. 👻🧭

• Shinkyusha: Three monkeys carved in eight relief panels, teaching the life lesson "see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil".

• Yomeimon Gate: The symbol of Toshogu Shrine, with 508 detailed carvings, nicknamed "so beautiful you can look all day".
• Joseon bell: A bell dedicated by the Joseon Tongsinsa (Korean diplomatic mission).
• Shin-yosha: Mikoshi of Tokugawa Ieyasu, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, and Minamoto no Yoritomo.
• Kamijinko: An elephant carving by an artist who had never seen a real elephant 🐘
• Honsha: The sleeping cat “Nemuri Neko” and sparrow carvings, said to represent a message of peace and coexistence.

• Opening hours (last entry 30 minutes before closing)
  • April to October: 08:00 to 17:00
  • November to March: 08:00 to 16:00
• Closed: Open daily
• Admission
  • Shrine grounds: Adults 1,600 yen / Elementary & junior high students 550 yen
  • Treasure Museum: Adults 1,000 yen / Elementary & junior high students 400 yen
  • Combo ticket: Adults 2,400 yen / Elementary & junior high students 870 yen
  • Museum of Art: Adults 800 yen / High school students 600 yen / Elementary & junior high students 400 yen

4) Rinnoji Temple: Taiyuin

輪王寺 大猷院

The mausoleum of Tokugawa Iemitsu, the third Tokugawa shogun. It is said he respected his grandfather Ieyasu so much that he left a request to be buried near him.

• Opening hours
  • April to October: 08:00 to 17:00
  • November to March: 08:00 to 16:00
• Closed: Open daily
• Admission: Adults 550 yen / Elementary & junior high students 250 yen

5) Rinnoji Temple: Sanbutsudo Hall

輪王寺 三仏堂

A temple founded in 766, when Shodo Shonin introduced Buddhism to Nikko. It is one of the three main head temples of the Tendai sect in Japan, and enshrines three Buddhist statues, each 7.5 meters tall. 🙏

• Opening hours
  • April to October: 08:00 to 17:00
  • November to March: 08:00 to 16:00
• Closed: Open daily
• Admission: Adults 400 yen / Elementary & junior high students 200 yen

6) Rinnoji Temple: Treasure House

輪王寺 宝物殿

A museum displaying artifacts from Nikko’s 1,200-year history. In particular, items brought by the Joseon Tongsinsa (Korean diplomatic mission) are listed as UNESCO Memory of the World. 🏛️

• Opening hours
  • April to October: 08:00 to 17:00
  • November to March: 08:00 to 16:00
• Closed: Open daily
• Admission: Adults 300 yen / Elementary & junior high students 100 yen

7) Akechidaira Ropeway & Observatory

One of Nikko’s best viewpoints. After taking the ropeway, you will see a wide-open view overlooking the Nikko area. 🚡🌄

From the observatory, there is a walking trail toward Lake Chuzenji (about 1 hour 30 minutes on foot). Sometimes wild monkeys may appear, so please be careful.

• Opening hours (last uphill 15:10 / last downhill 15:30)
  • April to November: 08:40 to 15:30
  • November to March: 09:00 to 13:30
  • Feb 4 to Feb 19: closed for inspection / temporary suspension possible due to weather
• Closed: Open daily
• Ropeway fare
  • One way: Adults 600 yen / Elementary & junior high students 300 yen
  • Round trip: Adults 1,000 yen / Elementary & junior high students 500 yen

8) Kegon Falls

“Taki (滝)” means waterfall in Japanese, and Kegon Falls is one of Japan’s three most famous waterfalls. There is a paid elevator near the falls, so you can view it from close by. 🌊

This site is also known in Japan as a suicide site, linked to an incident involving Fujiwara Misao, an 18-year-old student, on May 22, 1903.

• Opening hours (last uphill 15:10 / last downhill 15:30)
  • December to February: 09:00 to 16:30
  • March to November: 08:00 to 17:00
• Closed: Open daily
• Elevator fee: Round trip Adults 600 yen / Elementary & junior high students 400 yen

9) Lake Chuzenji

Lake Chuzenji, part of Nikko National Park, is about 21 km around and has a maximum depth of 163 m. You can enjoy the scenery from the water by pedal boat or sightseeing cruise. 🚤

• Cruise hours
  • Apr 20 to Nov 4: 09:30 to 15:30
  • Nov 5 to Nov 30: 10:30 to 14:30
• No service period: operates only from mid-April to late November
• Fare: varies by course (free with the Nikko All Area Pass)

10) Ryuzu Falls

竜頭の滝

"Ryuzu Falls" means “Dragon’s Head Waterfall.” It is named because the water flow and spray look like dragon scales or a rising dragon. 📷 It is also a popular spot for photographers.

11) Edo Wonderland

A theme park that recreates the Edo period in detail. It has streets and buildings that feel real, plus traditional shows and hands-on programs, including a ninja village and samurai houses. 🏯

At noon, there is also a parade featuring geisha and oiran in beautiful kimono and obi.

Difference between geisha and oiran: Geisha entertain guests through performing arts, while oiran were the highest-ranking courtesans.
If the obi (sash) is tied at the back, it is "geisha". If it is tied at the front, it is "oiran".

• Opening hours
  • Mar 20 to Nov 30: 09:00 to 17:00
  • Dec 1 to Mar 19: 09:30 to 16:00
• Closed: Wednesdays (except special opening days), Jan 16 to Jan 31
• Admission ticket (“Tsuko-tegata”)
  • Adults 5,800 yen / Children 3,000 yen
  • After 14:00: Adults 5,000 yen / Children 2,600 yen
• Access
  • From Kinugawa Onsen Station Platform 3 → bus to “Nikko Edomura”
  • Free shuttle within the Nikko heritage area (may not operate when crowded)

12) Tobu World Square

A theme park that displays miniature models of famous buildings from around the world. It surprises many visitors with the level of Japanese-style detail—"They made it this detailed?". 🌍🏛️

It is divided into areas such as Asia, Europe, America, Egypt, Japanese history, and modern, and includes many World Heritage miniatures.

From Edo Wonderland:

• Take a bus toward Kinugawa Onsen Station → get off at “Tobu World Square Onnai” bus stop
• Train: get off at Tobu World Square Station

• Opening hours (last entry 1 hour before closing)
  • Mid-March to November: 09:00 to 17:00
  • December to mid-March: 09:30 to 16:00
• Closed: Open daily
• Admission: Adults 2,800 yen / Children 1,400 yen