Classic Route Day 5

Nara

奈良

The last morning of the Classic Route has arrived.

This itinerary is planned on the assumption that your return flight departs in the afternoon or later, so adjust it according to your flight time.

Earlier, when introducing Osaka Shitennō-ji, we covered the story of the Soga clan (蘇我氏).

Even after Prince Shōtoku passed away, Soga no Umako continued to hold power, but the opposing faction staged a coup and drove the Soga clan out.

At the time, the emperor granted this faction the surname 'Fujiwara (藤原)', and they soon rose as the new ruling power.

Together with the Fujiwara, Emperor Tenji (天智天皇), the 38th emperor, moved the capital from Asuka (飛鳥)—which Prince Shōtoku had used as his capital—to Fujiwara-kyō (藤原京). (694)

However, Fujiwara-kyō was a city of about 30,000 people and had limitations as a planned city. In particular, the fact that it was a region with many Baekje-descended local clans did not align with the emperor’s policy of strengthening centralization.

In the end, after just 16 years, the capital was moved again to Heijō-kyō (平城京) in 710, marking the true beginning of the Nara period.

• There is also a theory that the name 'Nara' originated from the Korean word “nara (國家)”.

Tōdai-ji

東大寺

In 737, 27 years after the Nara period began, smallpox swept across Japan.

This smallpox is said to have originated from cattle raised as livestock, and it caused enormous damage—so much so that more than half of Heijō-kyō’s population died.

In response, Emperor Shōmu (聖武天皇), the 45th emperor, built Tōdai-ji (東大寺) along with a giant Buddha statue, expressing his determination to ward off disasters through the power of the Buddha.

The 16-meter-tall statue took 1.5 years just to make the mold, 1 year to set up the furnaces, and after eight failed castings over three years, it was finally completed—while the overall project was finished in 751.

The following year, in 752, the Eye-Opening Ceremony (開眼供養式)—a ritual to “give life” to the Buddha by consecrating its eyes—was held, and over 10,000 monks and envoys from places such as Silla, China, and India attended.

After Tōdai-ji, the construction of Buddhist temples and statues spread across Japan, but the massive amount of bronze required for the Great Buddha is said to have pushed the national finances to the brink of crisis.

The current Daibutsuden (Great Buddha Hall) was rebuilt twice; it was completed in 1709 and is about 30% smaller than the original.

• Hours: Apr–Oct 07:30–17:30 / Nov–Mar 08:00–17:00
• Open year-round

1) Buddhism and Japan’s ban on eating meat

Emperor Tenmu (天武天皇), the 40th emperor, adopted Buddhism as the state religion and proclaimed a ban on eating meat in 675. Later, in 721, Empress Genshō (元正天皇), the 44th ruler, even enforced a prohibition on killing.

As a result, there is a story that for about 1,200 years, Japanese people avoided meat, and that this even influenced body build.

• One interpretation is that this is why, when people think of Japanese cuisine, they often first think of raw fish (sashimi).

Because the period of meat consumption was short, grilling meat developed relatively late, and dishes like sukiyaki, shabu-shabu, and gyūdon are representative examples.

Later, during the Japanese colonial period, Korea’s grilled-meat culture was introduced by Koreans who were forcibly mobilized, and in Japan it came to be called “yakiniku (焼肉)”.

2) The origin of “hormone” (ホルモン)

Even after liberation, Koreans who could not return home began buying beef offal that Japanese people did not eat at low prices, seasoning it, and grilling it to sell. This is said to be the beginning of 'horumon (ホルモン)'.

There is also a theory that the name 'horumon' comes from the Japanese words 'to discard (ほる)' + 'thing (もの)'.

Osaka’s Tsuruhashi (鶴橋) is said to be where horumon and yakiniku culture first took root, and it remains Japan’s largest Koreatown to this day.

Deer Park

奈良公園

Among Nara’s representative tourist spots, along with Tōdai-ji (東大寺), you can’t leave out the deer park.

The official name of this deer park is Nara Park (奈良公園), and in practice it refers to a broad area that includes the surroundings of Tōdai-ji.

So even on the walk from Kintetsu Nara Station toward Tōdai-ji, you can meet plenty of deer, meaning you don’t necessarily need to go out of your way to reach the “center” of the park.

One explanation for why there are so many deer around Tōdai-ji comes from the legend that the place where Shakyamuni first preached to his five disciples was the 'Deer Park (鹿野苑)'.

Nara’s deer are also famous for the idea that they “respond” when you bow—this is interpreted as a learned behavior: when the deer lower their heads, they may receive food, essentially expecting deer senbei (special crackers).

• Nara’s deer are protected as a Natural Monument.
• In spring, be cautious of mother deer protecting their fawns.
• In autumn, it is the breeding season, and some deer may become aggressive.
• Early morning deer may react more actively because they are hungry.
• There is a lot of deer droppings around the park, so watch your step.

Recommended Stops Before Heading to the Airport

1) Sennan Marble Beach

A beach made of white marble pebbles rather than sand, offering an exotic view where you can also watch the sunset and see planes taking off and landing at Kansai Airport.

The scenery at dusk is especially popular as a date spot for locals, and it also works well as a light walk on your last day if you are not carrying too much luggage.

2) Rinku Town Outlets

A representative outlet where you can wrap up your shopping right before departure. If you are short on time, you can skip Sennan Marble Beach and enjoy the seaside vibes at nearby Rinku Marble Beach instead.

After shopping, you can take a paid shuttle bus (Sky Shuttle) that goes directly to the airport, making the transfer convenient.