Jozankei

Preface

Jozankei is located about 1 hour by bus from Sapporo, making it a place where you can properly enjoy hot springs without traveling far. It’s well suited for a day trip or a 1-night, 2-day course.

While there aren’t many sightseeing attractions, it’s a great spot to enjoy hot spring bathing and relaxation at the same time while taking in the natural scenery.

A day-use onsen is absolutely doable, but if you want deeper rest, an overnight stay is recommended.

If you’re only planning a day-use visit, you may need to rent or buy towels on site, so it’s best to bring an extra towel in advance.

• 🧼 A nice touch: bring a plastic bag for your wet towel too!

Recommended Hotels & Ryokan

Since Jozankei is located close to Sapporo, it’s a great area to spend one night at an onsen hotel or ryokan without going far.

How to Get to Jozankei Onsen

You can reach Jozankei conveniently from Sapporo by bus, and there are two main options.

1. Kappa Liner bus

   • Board at major locations such as Sapporo Station (Stop 27), Odori Nishi 1-chome, and Susukino
   • Reserved-seat bus, about 1 hour
   • Reservations available from one month ahead up to the day before
   • Reservation: phone (+81-120-737-109) or official website
   • Same-day boarding is possible if seats remain, and it also goes to Hoheikyo Onsen

2. Rapid bus

   • Board at Sapporo Station (Stop 26), Odori Nishi 1-chome, and Susukino
   • Regular route bus, about 1 hour 20 minutes
   • Use this if you couldn’t reserve the Kappa Liner or if there are no remaining seats
   • Since it’s a regular bus, your chance of getting a seat is higher if you board at Sapporo Station
   • Hoheikyo Onsen uses the 7H route; other destinations use 7H, 8H, or 8J

Round-Trip Bus & Onsen Package Guide

• Sapporo ~ Hoheikyo Onsen: 1,700 yen one way × 2 + onsen fee 1,300 yen
  • Online reservation: 1,460 yen one way
• Total 4,700 yen → 3,500 yen with the package
• Book as a digital ticket via the website
• You can also buy on site at the Jotetsu Bus Information Center
  • Boarding the Kappa Liner is only possible if seats remain; otherwise, only the Rapid bus is available
  • Usable only on the exact date of use

Onsen list you can use with the bus & onsen package (6 locations total)

• Yumoto Koganeyu Onsen (Location)
  Yumoto Shun-no-Oyado Matsu-no-Yu (Location)

  • Get off at Stop 1 (Koganeyu)
  • Timetable: Departing Sapporo / Departing Koganeyu

• Nukumo-ri no Yado Furukawa (Location)

  • Get off at Stop 4 (Jozankei Yunomachi)
  • Timetable: Departing Sapporo / Departing Yunomachi

• Jozankei Manseikaku Hotel Milione (Location)

  • Get off at Stop 8 (Jozankei)
  • Timetable: Departing Sapporo / Departing Jozankei

• Yuno-hana Jozankei-den (Location)

  • Get off at Stop 9 (Jozankei Shako-mae)
  • Timetable: Departing Sapporo / Departing Shako-mae

• Yawaragi no Sato Hoheikyo Onsen (Location)

  • 🍛 Also famous for great curry
  • Get off at Stop 10 (Hoheikyo Onsen)
  • Timetable: Departing Sapporo / Departing Hoheikyo

The Guardian of the Hot Spring Town: The Kappa Story

A kappa is a water-dwelling yokai that often appears in Japanese folklore. It is written with the kanji river (河) + child (童), but the Japanese reading is 'kappa', which is completely different.
Even many Japanese people can’t read this kanji correctly.

There are theories that the kappa originated from China and another that it came from Jinhan (Jinhan during the Three Kingdoms period).
In particular, it used to be called 'garappa', and some argue that 'gara' refers to the Gaya confederacy and 'pa(派)' means a group, suggesting it may have originated from people of Gaya.

In the Jinhan region at the time, there was a custom of flattening a child’s head, and since a kappa’s head is also flat, this is sometimes cited as supporting the Three Kingdoms-origin theory.

Another interesting legend comes from Yatsushiro City (八代市) in Kyushu.
After a kappa was caught by villagers for causing trouble, it promised, ‘I won’t play tricks until this stone wears down’, and asked them to hold a festival every year.

Accordingly, the town holds a festival every year on May 18 called ‘Oreorederaida (オレオレデーライタ)’. This term is said to be similar in meaning to Korean—something like “for a long, long time + to come to be”, and also resembles the intonation of Kyushu dialects. (There are also darker legends, but if you’re interested, search separately.)

In modern times, kappa often appear as mischievous characters in water-themed anime and mascots, and are also famous for the legends that they die if the water on their head dries up and that they love cucumbers.

In Japan, a cucumber-only sushi roll is called ‘kappamaki (かっぱ巻き)’, and if someone’s cucumbers go missing, people may even blame it on a kappa—that’s how familiar the creature is.

The Relationship Between Jozankei and Kappa 🌊

According to legend, a young man went fishing by the river and disappeared, and then one year later appeared in his father’s dream, saying he was living happily with a kappa wife and children.

After that, it is said that no drowning accidents occurred in Jozankei, and the kappa came to be regarded as a guardian deity, leaving behind many related symbols throughout the area.

A kappa character named 'Kappoŋ' serves as the official PR ambassador of Jozankei Onsen, and in July 2012, even received a ‘Special Resident Card’ from the mayor of Sapporo’s Minami Ward.

Around Jozankei town, you can also find shops selling kappa-related goods.

In particular, at the entrance of the town there is a ‘Kappa Hand Bath (手湯)’, where if you pour hot spring water onto the kappa’s head, water flows out of its mouth. There is a legend that if you wash your hands with this water and make a wish, it will come true.

If you’re planning a trip to Jozankei, it’s recommended to experience this fun folklore and guardian tradition as part of your visit.